Skin guide
How to read a serum label
Updated October 9, 2026 · 6-minute read
The short answer: ingredients are listed from most to least, until you reach the ones at 1% or less, which can be in any order. That means the order alone can’t tell you how much of an active is in there. The only way to know is a printed percentage. Words like “hypoallergenic” and “clean” have no legal definition, and “unscented” isn’t the same as “fragrance-free.”
Rule 1: most to least, until the 1% line
In the US, cosmetic ingredients must be listed in descending order of how much is in the product. But ingredients present at 1% or less may be listed in any order after the others (source). So everything after roughly the 1% point could be 0.9% or 0.001%: the list can’t tell you which.
That’s why “contains hyaluronic acid” on the front of a bottle can mean a lot or almost nothing.
Rule 2: only a percentage tells you how much
Most brands print one number at most, usually the headline ingredient, or none at all. A full set of percentages lets you compare products properly and avoid paying for an ingredient that’s barely there. Draíocht prints every active’s percentage on the label:
- Sodium hyaluronate (hyaluronic acid) 1%: draws water into the outer layer of skin.
- Niacinamide 4%: vitamin B3; helps support a healthy-looking skin barrier and calms the look of redness.
- Panthenol 3%: provitamin B5; softens and soothes the look of dry, rough patches.
- Propanediol 3%: a plant-derived humectant that adds water and helps the formula spread and absorb.
- Trehalose 2%: a sugar that helps skin hold on to water in dry conditions.
- Allantoin 0.4%: softens rough skin and soothes the look of irritation.
The preservatives (phenoxyethanol, gluconolactone, benzyl alcohol, potassium sorbate) are each under 1%.
Rule 3: “fragrance” can hide a lot
Fragrance can be listed as the single word “fragrance” (source), which can stand for many individual chemicals. Look for:
- Fragrance-free: what dermatologists recommend for dry or sensitive skin. They specifically advise avoiding products labeled only “unscented” (source).
- Unscented: can still contain masking fragrance to cover the smell of other ingredients.
- Essential oils and botanical extracts: natural, but some behave like fragrance on skin. In one analysis, 45% of moisturizers labeled “fragrance-free” still contained a fragrance or botanical cross-reactor (source).
Words that sound official but aren’t
| On the label | What it really means |
|---|---|
| Hypoallergenic | No federal standard or definition; each company decides what it means (source). |
| Clean / non-toxic | No legal definition. Look at the ingredient list instead. |
| Dermatologist-tested | Means a test happened, not what the result was. Ask for details. |
| Clinically proven | Ask: which product, how many people, compared with what? |
| Proprietary blend / complex | A name for a group of ingredients, usually without amounts. |
| Non-comedogenic | Unregulated. “Formulated without known pore-clogging ingredients” is a more honest version. |
A quick label checklist
- Is there a percentage for each active? If not, assume the amount could be small.
- Where does the active sit in the list? Near the end can mean a trace.
- Is it fragrance-free, not just “unscented”?
- What’s the base? Water, or oils, waxes and petrolatum? (See serum vs. lotion.)
- What does it cost per ounce for the amount you’ll actually use?
Questions
How do you read a skincare ingredient list?
Ingredients are listed from most to least, but those at 1% or less can be listed in any order after the rest. So the list shows rough order, not amounts. Only a printed percentage tells you how much of an active is in the product.
What does the 1% rule on ingredient labels mean?
Under US rules, ingredients present at 1% or less may be listed in any order after the ingredients above 1%. Anything after that point could be anywhere from just under 1% to a trace.
What is the difference between fragrance-free and unscented?
Fragrance-free means no fragrance was added. Unscented can still contain masking fragrance to hide the smell of other ingredients. Dermatologists recommend fragrance-free products for dry or sensitive skin.
Does hypoallergenic mean anything?
Not legally. The FDA says there are no federal standards or definitions for the term; each company decides what it means.
Why don’t most brands list percentages?
They aren’t required to. US labels must list ingredients but not amounts, so most brands show one headline number at most. Draíocht prints the percentage of every active on the label.
Sources
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration, “Cosmetics labeling guide” (21 CFR 701.3). fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-labeling-regulations/cosmetics-labeling-guide
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration, “Hypoallergenic cosmetics.” fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-labeling-claims/hypoallergenic-cosmetics
- American Academy of Dermatology, “Dermatologists’ top tips for relieving dry skin.” aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/dry/dermatologists-tips-relieve-dry-skin
- Xu S, Kwa M, Silverberg JI et al., “Consumer preferences, product characteristics, and potentially allergenic ingredients in best-selling moisturizers,” JAMA Dermatology, 2017; summary by Northwestern University. news.northwestern.edu/stories/2017/september/moisturizers-for-skin-disorder-sufferers
This guide is general skincare information, not medical advice. Draíocht is a cosmetic. For external use only; avoid contact with eyes; stop using it if irritation occurs.
More skin guides: HA for your body · HA + niacinamide · Serum vs. lotion · How to use HA serum · Body serums compared · Dry, crepey skin